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Jean-Paul Dubost Morgon Cote de Py 2021From arguably the Mount Olympus of Beaujolais vineyards, Jean Pauls Morgon Cte de Py (a slight derivation of the more common moniker, Cte du Puy) gives the kind of plush, wide aspect ratio fruit one expects from this fabled site, with a lurking, less bare knuckled minerality than his other cru wines from Brouilly and Moulin Vent. It is very sappy but without being at all syrupy and definitely justifies its price point, in range with other excellent

gravelly limestone

which allows for that intoxicating spice signature to reach even greater heights

it is macerated for several weeks on its skins

truffled aromas marry to a full-bodied

cool-toned minerality counterbalances warmly spicy fruit here

as he sees fit—following the model of his old employer Puffeney who produced the stunning “Vieilles Vignes” cuvée through the 2005 vintage using all three cépages

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plus a tiny splash of Malbec

and it is bottled without any additions whatsoever

While perhaps less honeyed and floral than the Clos des Oratoriens bottling in some vintages

more often than not

Vinified and aged in steel with no added sulfur at any point

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